Accademia Riaci
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10月. 10, 2016 | Posted in 未分類 , Student Reporter | Tags:Li Shiau-Ting, ShoemakingReporter: | Course: Shoemaking
Shoe Making 5-Master Course 2016 (Student1)
這個禮拜的課程，我們完成了女鞋的製作，並開始新的篇章－Francesina。Francesina就是常見的經典鞋款牛津鞋，擁有封閉式的鞋耳。自從從事男鞋設計，一直希望能親手製作自己設計的手工鞋，很高興現在這個願望終於可以實現了。
This week, we completed our Decollete and started a new page – Francesina. Francesina is normally known as Oxford in English, which is one of the classic pattern in man shoes. Since I worked in men shoe company in my hometown, I always felt excited if I could make my own. I’m really pleased that we now began.
這個禮拜一，我們繼續製作未完成的淑女鞋。上個禮拜找到合適的跟型之後，這禮拜我們開始製作符合鞋子輪廓的大底。
On Monday, we keep working on our Decollete. Last week we found appropriate heel for our last, now we start from making outsole to fit shoe shape.
待膠乾一些之後，把削薄的大底小心地貼上。
After glue is dried a little bit, outsole has to carefully stick insole and heel together.
雖然在之前的步驟已經有上膠將鞋跟黏貼起來，為了讓鞋跟更加穩固耐穿，再後面踩踏的地方需再釘上螺絲釘。
Although we glue our heel to insole, doesn’t mean it is stable. we screw these two pieces together to make sure it doesn’t come off.
完成Chanel女鞋的製作了，完成後我興奮得套上試穿，尺寸剛剛好。
Finally, I finished my left side of Chanel. Luckily, this shoe last really fit my feet.
大家把完成的鞋子一字排開拍照，不同顏色組合看起來就像一個系列。
Take a photo of every classmate’s art work, it looks like a collection when put together.
星期三我們開始全新的版型－牛津鞋。教授正在介紹各種牛津鞋的設計變化及基礎的概念。
On Wednesday, we started the brand new pattern– Francesina. Professor introduced different types of Francesina to let us know basic knowledge.
在拿到我們訂製的楦頭之前，我們依舊使用先前的女鞋楦頭來練習牛津鞋的版型。同樣的，我們從貼紙膠這個步驟開始紙板製作。
Before receiving our own last, we keep working on same last as we practicing in Decollete. First step also start from taping.
這個版型的製作方式跟女鞋版很不同，比起女鞋牛津鞋多了許多的裁片，也有鞋舌的結構在裡面，因此複雜許多。
This pattern is really different from Decollete because this one has many small pieces, this photo shows the stander pattern before cutting into small pieces.
在製作完半面版之後呢，就必須拆解成小裁片，每個裁片因為堆疊的順序跟鞋口的製作方式不同，需仔細的切割跟量測。
Each pieces has to measure and cut carefully, then use fabric for testing the shape.
星期四上課的小確幸，同學帶了他自製的杯子蛋糕，上面的英式巧克力實在太厲害啦!這禮拜的報告到這邊囉，下週見!
Happy lovely class with cupcake, which was baked from my classmate- joe. See the decoration on top, so amazing.This is weekly reports, see you next week!
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At Accademia Riaci, we are recruiting Course Reporters from our students. The students who are chosen to become Course Reporters are given 10 % of the tuition as their scholarship fee.
The Reporters who have submitted excellent reports will have his or her profile posted on our school website for the next 5 years as an alumnae and will be able to connect with their business chancesafter their graduation.
