10月. 28, 2016 | Posted in 未分類 , Student Reporter | Tags:Li Shiau-Ting, ShoemakingReporter: | Course: Shoemaking

Shoe Making 7-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜的課程，我們專注在學習Francesina的中底製作以及鞋面攀幫。同時，我們拿到先前訂製的楦頭了! 從此刻起，我們將使用自己挑選的楦頭設計自己的鞋款，好興奮。

This week’s class, we focused on making insole and lasting Francesina. At the same time, we received our shoe last this week! Now, we could actually make our own shoe. I’m very looking forward to it.

星期一，我們從中底製作開始學起，這次不同於女鞋製作，使用的是皮革中底，我們要用原皮一刀一刀的切割出符合楦頭型的中底，助教正在教我們該如何讓皮革服貼楦頭面，並用釘子釘好固定。

On Monday, we start learning how to make insole, this time is quite different because we now using leather as insole, it is more complicated and take times. Assistance teaching us how to make leather sole as well as the method of letting leather fit the last.

在用水浸溼、刮除表面油脂後，再將皮革塑型並釘在楦頭固定。等乾之後，就能切割形狀了。

Wetting the leather and skiving oil on surface, then conducting leather with hammer and nail. Dried a little bit, now we could cut the edge.

教授正在教我們如何製作貼在鐵心下方的皮革裁片。

Professor was teaching us how to design the pattern below the metal.

切好後，放入鐵心，並用另一片皮革覆蓋住鐵心。教授說：下面的皮革要削到零。製作鞋子有好多馬步功需要學習。

Cutting leather, combining metal and then stick another layer to cover metal. This layer of leather should be skived into zero on the edge.

在貼後港寶的時候有特別的手勢，Francesina的練習連港寶都很講究，是皮港寶啊!

There is a special position when gluing back counter. Even back counter use leather.

貼好皮港寶後，就可以開始攀鞋面了。不小心把要固定鞋面的內裡剪太多，只好釘在鞋面的夾縫間，哈哈。

After sticking back counter, it’s time to start lasting. I accidently cut too much lining on the back, I had no choice but put my nail on upper, haha. It won’t make a mark, I put it on the corner.

攀幫的步驟跟Decollete滿相似的，一樣是先pre-lasting然後用密集的釘子固定鞋面。

The method of lasting is similar to Decollete shoe. First, pre-lasting then, lasting.

Francesina鞋面完成。

Francesina lasting finished.

星期三上課的小確幸，這是同樣來自台灣的朋友煮的珍珠奶茶，好懷念的家鄉味阿!

Having bubble tea, was made by friends also from Taiwan, on Wednesday. For so long I didn’t have this flavor, now I had, how wonderfull.

利用課間的時間，我完成我的第一雙手工鞋，我要穿著它到處走。這禮拜的報告到這邊囉，下週見!

This week I also finished my first pair of handmade shoe. I am going wear it around Firenze! This is weekly reports, see you next week!

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