Accademia Riaci
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3月. 09, 2018 | Posted in 未分類 , Student Reporter | Tags:Li Shiau-Ting, ShoemakingReporter: | Course: Shoemaking
Shoe Making 9-Atelier Course 2017
這禮拜我製作完莫卡辛的鞋面並且開始lasting了! 圖片裡我正在縫製莫卡辛常見的邊緣處理方式，稱作Border。第一次車縫這樣的邊條有點不太適應，兩塊皮料的高低落差讓輪軸像開在不平穩路面的車，上上下下的，呼!
Hi, another moccasin week! In this week, I’ve done with my upper and finally started lasting. As you see in the picture, this is a new method for edge finishing, which is called “Border”. The method needed to concentrate very well while stitching. For the first time making “Border”, it took me a while to adapt it. In conclusion, it looks NICE!
看來我的第一雙客訂德比鞋快要完成了，好令人興奮。
It seems my first customized Derby could be done in this week. How exciting!
這是Monica的牛津鞋，我很喜歡她的顏色搭配，搭起來協調又可愛。
This is Monica’s oxford shoes. I like the way she uses colors and that lovely combination.
Monica接著要lasting鞋面了。教授Angelo正在示範lasting的步驟，每次都是又快又精準啊!
Prof. Angelo was showing Monica how to last her oxford shoes. see how fast, professional and accurate he did like always! (Impressive…)
莫卡辛鞋面製作好的樣子，我也要準備來lasting這雙鞋囉
Photo shot when moccasin upper was ready. Now, it is the time to last this shoe!
圖片裡教授Angelo正在示範lasting莫卡辛鞋的步驟。放置counter的方式跟其他鞋面做法相同。
Prof. Angelo was showing me how to last moccasin shoe. The way for lasting it and putting counters is the same as usual.
屁股的地方要稍微伸展一下來塑形－Angelo說著…
The back part needed to stretch shape it a bit by hand, Angelo said.
好了，Pre-lasting完成。這雙鞋我決定挑戰Idea的工法，在lasting的工序跟方法上也跟先前的完全不同。
Okay, Pre-lasting was finished. In this time, I decided to challenge a new construction named- Idea. As you see, this lasting method is so different from the others.
需要將所有的鞋面打開，並用長釘子向外固定住，跟以往在鞋跟位置打短釘的做法很不同。
Especially the back part, usually we use short nail for the heel but, in this case, Prof. use long nail and bend it down around the last…
終於開心地把德比鞋完成了，謝謝Masa仔細地幫我穿上鞋帶，鞋子看起來更加完整了。這禮拜週報就到這裡，我們下禮拜見囉~
I am very happy I have finished this pair. Thanks for our assistant – Masa helping me with shoe laces. Now, it looks gorgeous! This is the end of weekly report, see you next week~
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