11月. 21, 2016 | Posted in 未分類 , Student Reporter | Tags:Li Shiau-Ting, ShoemakingReporter: | Course: Shoemaking

Shoe Making 9-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

經過一個禮拜的休息，又充滿朝氣了，等不急要衝進教室繼續完成作品。現在的日子每天都覺得不夠用，好希望能有更多的時間可以做更多的鞋子。好，這禮拜就從製作試版鞋開始吧!

After one week break, I felt energized. Couldn’t wait but keep going my shoes. Time is limited, I hope I could have more time to learn and continue more step. Okay, this week, let’s start from fabric testing.

上回的牛津鞋使用較為簡單的線條設計，這次嘗試比較複雜的雕花鞋款，在細節上也使用了很多鋸齒的裝飾，開始學習使用鋸齒專用的工具敲出美麗的弧線。

A week before I use simple line for practicing first Francesina shoe. This time, I had tried more complicated design, using lots of zigzag along the edge for decoration.

車縫組合後的樣子，這款的裁片也比上一款複雜許多，鞋面不含內裏總共有9片。

The look after join all pieces. There were 9 pieces in this upper.

這是第一雙自己挑選的楦頭、自己的尺寸、自己的設計，因此即便只是試版，仍花了很多功夫在細節上。我很滿意這次的試版，試完版後更加期待穿在腳上的樣子了。

Because this was the first shoe in which I plan all the detail – from last to size, then pattern. Although this was not practical work, which means using only fabric, still, I wanted to do as best I can.

在試版確定版型之後，在助教的指導下，翼紋內側我稍微修改了一下線條。接著畫版，準備切割。

After making sure the pattern, it’s time for cutting the leather.

割完裁片後的樣貌，內裏加上鞋面疊起來頗有分量，割得手也很痛…

Photo shot after cutting all layer. Yellow one is lining, black one is upper.

星期三，我開始準備攀幫要用的中底，我正在將切下來的中底皮進行加工－用玻璃將表面的油脂刮除。

One Wednesday, I start preparing insole for lasting. In this step, I was working my insole leather- using glasses to remove oil on surface.

刮好後，開始將皮革釘在楦頭上，這個步驟很重要的是，要將楦頭下面的輪廓呈現出來，接著再將後方要放鐵心的地方用機器削平。

When skiving was done, we start putting nail into our last. This step is really important for shaping the bottom of last’s outline. Then, skiving back a little bit with machine.

在等中底乾的同時，我將車好的鞋舌上色，必須用很細的筆小心的填入雕花孔內，免得溢出來。

When waiting for insole to dry, I stitched my tongue and start dyeing the decoration. I use super tiny pen incase over coloring.

等中底差不多乾了，就可以拿刀子沿著輪廓切出合腳的形狀。不得不說，這個步驟好像在削蘋果啊，要技術好，才會削得漂亮，看來要多練練了。

I have to say, cutting insole leather is not easy. With good skills, need days of practice. I think I should practice more to make it perfact…

星期五，我終於將大致上的鞋面都組合好了，接著就等下禮拜上課繼續完成囉。
以上是這禮拜的報告分享，下週見!

Final day of this week, I approximately combined all pieces. Waiting for next week’s class to keep going! This is weekly reports, see you next week!

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