Reporter: Shoemaking
Jul. 03, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 5
うち羽接着製法5 05/12/2013
・We set the heel size and proceed with building up the leather layers
(the heel size corresponds approximately to 1/4 of the total length of the sole)
・The leather w… [Read more]
Jul. 03, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 3
うち羽接着製法3 02/12/2013
・We apply the outsole (in the adhesive process, the leather thickness should be about 3 mm).
・We scrape the outsole with a grinder and
arrange the shape
・Then, w… [Read more]
Jul. 02, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 3
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法3 6.2.2014
・After adjusting the cork shape, we attach a 5mm-thick outsole
・We firmly hammer it and be sure that there aren’t protrusions
・We cut off the pi… [Read more]
Jul. 02, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 2
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法2 5.2.2014
・For the open-laced technique, we attach the outsole leather and adjust the shape
・Since the welt has visible seams, the shoe looks like a Goodyear … [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 1
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法1 3.2.2014
・For the attaching technique of open-laced shoes, we
attach the welt adjusting it to the outer perimeter of the shoe
・We curve the welt to fit the c… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Closed lacing shoe – Attaching process
うち羽接着本番靴制作
・After cutting the leather for the final shoe, we skim the overlapped part, as we did for the provisional sample.
・After the skimming, we wrap up the leather around the wear… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 2
うち羽接着製法
・The lasting is a very important process to determine the design, and that’s why everyone is very concentrated on his/her work.
・After lasting the internal leather, we apply the rubb… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 1
うち羽接着製法
・This is Francis, second-year student of Shoe Making.
Compared to other students, he has reached a very high level of manufacturing skills
・2年目のフランシス。
他の学生とは違いかなり高度な製法の靴を制作しています… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 6
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法 30.1.2014
・In the case of Goodyear stitching, since we perform blind stitch, we use the leather for the toe box.
・After having attached it, lasted it and adjust… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 5
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法５ 29.1.2014
・After the lasting, we remove all nails and attach the sole leather
・When we use the adhesion process, we use a 3mm-thick leather for the sole
・吊り込み後… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 4
外羽接着、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法４ 27/1/2014
・The way we cut the paper pattern can affect greatly the shoe design, so it is important to pay attention in the process.
・It’s also important to cut out … [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 3
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法3 23.1.2014
・This is the open-laced moccasin design
・We assemble 2 types of leather, white and brown color, and sew the parts together
・We perforate the… [Read more]
Jun. 30, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques ２
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法２ 22/1/2014
・After having built up the leather layers on the heel, we check the whole height of the shoe.
・The standard uplift corresponds to 1 pencil placed und… [Read more]
Jun. 30, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 1
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法１ 20/1/2014
・Compared to the closed-laced shoe, the open-laced one is composed by more parts, so let’s pay particular attention during the cutting
process
・As for … [Read more]
Jun. 30, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Attaching techniques for pumps and design (provisional shoes)
パンプス接着方法 デザイン～仮靴
・First, we attach the design tape on the external side of the shoetree
・We draw a line in the center of the shoetree and we cut all the parts besides the external side (th… [Read more]
Jun. 30, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Provisional shoes: adhesion and pattern cutting
外羽接着・型紙裁断～仮靴
・After having cut the paper pattern off, we transfer it on the provisory felt and cut it again.
・It’s important to check whether the felt has been cut following the patt… [Read more]
Jun. 30, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-lacing type – Attaching method
外羽接着
・After removing from the shoetree the design tape, we attach it to the cardboard and cut out the paper pattern of each part.
・Since in the open-laced type the shoe tongue is con… [Read more]
Jun. 26, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
CLOSED LACING shoe – Attaching process
うち羽接着
・We assemble the leather of the external and internal part, sewing them with the machine.
・Once the sewing is done, we perforate the leather for the shoelaces
(depending on th… [Read more]
Jun. 20, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Creation of shoe exercise sample and shoe cutting procedure
仮靴製作・本番靴革裁断
・previous report, we place the paper pattern on the cloth for exercise and we cut each part.
・Let’s thin out the parts where the wings and quartets overlap and let’s make sure… [Read more]
Jun. 19, 2014 | Posted in
Uncategorized , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
| Language:
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
CLOSED LACING type of shoe (2 part)
うち羽 (接着)2
Removing the paper pattern
型紙取り続き
・Now, we cut the cardboard with a cutter, at about 2mm distance from the design lines.
・厚紙に貼り付けたデザインテープ上に描いたデザインに合わせてカッターナイフを使い2mm程度の細い切… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 5
うち羽接着製法5 05/12/2013 ・We set the heel size and proceed with building up the leather layers (the heel size corresponds approximately to 1/4 of the total length of the sole) ・The leather w… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 3
うち羽接着製法3 02/12/2013 ・We apply the outsole (in the adhesive process, the leather thickness should be about 3 mm). ・We scrape the outsole with a grinder and arrange the shape ・Then, w… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 3
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法3 6.2.2014 ・After adjusting the cork shape, we attach a 5mm-thick outsole ・We firmly hammer it and be sure that there aren’t protrusions ・We cut off the pi… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 2
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法2 5.2.2014 ・For the open-laced technique, we attach the outsole leather and adjust the shape ・Since the welt has visible seams, the shoe looks like a Goodyear … [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 1
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法1 3.2.2014 ・For the attaching technique of open-laced shoes, we attach the welt adjusting it to the outer perimeter of the shoe ・We curve the welt to fit the c… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Closed lacing shoe – Attaching process
うち羽接着本番靴制作 ・After cutting the leather for the final shoe, we skim the overlapped part, as we did for the provisional sample. ・After the skimming, we wrap up the leather around the wear… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 2
うち羽接着製法 ・The lasting is a very important process to determine the design, and that’s why everyone is very concentrated on his/her work. ・After lasting the internal leather, we apply the rubb… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 1
うち羽接着製法 ・This is Francis, second-year student of Shoe Making. Compared to other students, he has reached a very high level of manufacturing skills ・2年目のフランシス。 他の学生とは違いかなり高度な製法の靴を制作しています… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 6
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法 30.1.2014 ・In the case of Goodyear stitching, since we perform blind stitch, we use the leather for the toe box. ・After having attached it, lasted it and adjust… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 5
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法５ 29.1.2014 ・After the lasting, we remove all nails and attach the sole leather ・When we use the adhesion process, we use a 3mm-thick leather for the sole ・吊り込み後… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 4
外羽接着、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法４ 27/1/2014 ・The way we cut the paper pattern can affect greatly the shoe design, so it is important to pay attention in the process. ・It’s also important to cut out … [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 3
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法3 23.1.2014 ・This is the open-laced moccasin design ・We assemble 2 types of leather, white and brown color, and sew the parts together ・We perforate the… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques ２
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法２ 22/1/2014 ・After having built up the leather layers on the heel, we check the whole height of the shoe. ・The standard uplift corresponds to 1 pencil placed und… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 1
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法１ 20/1/2014 ・Compared to the closed-laced shoe, the open-laced one is composed by more parts, so let’s pay particular attention during the cutting process ・As for … [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Attaching techniques for pumps and design (provisional shoes)
パンプス接着方法 デザイン～仮靴 ・First, we attach the design tape on the external side of the shoetree ・We draw a line in the center of the shoetree and we cut all the parts besides the external side (th… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Provisional shoes: adhesion and pattern cutting
外羽接着・型紙裁断～仮靴 ・After having cut the paper pattern off, we transfer it on the provisory felt and cut it again. ・It’s important to check whether the felt has been cut following the patt… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Open-lacing type – Attaching method
外羽接着 ・After removing from the shoetree the design tape, we attach it to the cardboard and cut out the paper pattern of each part. ・Since in the open-laced type the shoe tongue is con… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
CLOSED LACING shoe – Attaching process
うち羽接着 ・We assemble the leather of the external and internal part, sewing them with the machine. ・Once the sewing is done, we perforate the leather for the shoelaces (depending on th… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Creation of shoe exercise sample and shoe cutting procedure
仮靴製作・本番靴革裁断 ・previous report, we place the paper pattern on the cloth for exercise and we cut each part. ・Let’s thin out the parts where the wings and quartets overlap and let’s make sure… [Read more]
Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
CLOSED LACING type of shoe (2 part)
うち羽 (接着)2 Removing the paper pattern 型紙取り続き ・Now, we cut the cardboard with a cutter, at about 2mm distance from the design lines. ・厚紙に貼り付けたデザインテープ上に描いたデザインに合わせてカッターナイフを使い2mm程度の細い切… [Read more]