Reporter: Morita
Jul. 11, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
OPEN-LACED SHOE AND GOODYEAR STYLE STITCHING 5
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法5 25.2.2014
・The students check the process of leather cutting together with the instructor, following carefully the paper pattern (photo on the left and central)
・In the … [Read more]
Jul. 11, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
OPEN-LACED SHOES AND GOODYEAR WELT METHOD 3
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法3 4.3.2014
・In order to reinforce the toe part, students attach the leather and adjust the shape (photo on the left)
・After having sewn the welt around the shoe, stude… [Read more]
Jul. 03, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 8
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法8 11.2.2014
・For Goodyear style, we nail the leather to the shoetree. The leather has been first wetted and its thickness is 5mm.
・Once the leather is dried, we r… [Read more]
Jul. 03, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 7
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法7 10.2.2014
・After having colored the outsole and arranged the shape, the students remove the shoetree
・They fix the heel with screws, from the inside of the s… [Read more]
Jul. 03, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 5
うち羽接着製法5 05/12/2013
・We set the heel size and proceed with building up the leather layers
(the heel size corresponds approximately to 1/4 of the total length of the sole)
・The leather w… [Read more]
Jul. 03, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 3
うち羽接着製法3 02/12/2013
・We apply the outsole (in the adhesive process, the leather thickness should be about 3 mm).
・We scrape the outsole with a grinder and
arrange the shape
・Then, w… [Read more]
Jul. 02, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 3
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法3 6.2.2014
・After adjusting the cork shape, we attach a 5mm-thick outsole
・We firmly hammer it and be sure that there aren’t protrusions
・We cut off the pi… [Read more]
Jul. 02, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 2
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法2 5.2.2014
・For the open-laced technique, we attach the outsole leather and adjust the shape
・Since the welt has visible seams, the shoe looks like a Goodyear … [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 1
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法1 3.2.2014
・For the attaching technique of open-laced shoes, we
attach the welt adjusting it to the outer perimeter of the shoe
・We curve the welt to fit the c… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Closed lacing shoe – Attaching process
うち羽接着本番靴制作
・After cutting the leather for the final shoe, we skim the overlapped part, as we did for the provisional sample.
・After the skimming, we wrap up the leather around the wear… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 2
うち羽接着製法
・The lasting is a very important process to determine the design, and that’s why everyone is very concentrated on his/her work.
・After lasting the internal leather, we apply the rubb… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 1
うち羽接着製法
・This is Francis, second-year student of Shoe Making.
Compared to other students, he has reached a very high level of manufacturing skills
・2年目のフランシス。
他の学生とは違いかなり高度な製法の靴を制作しています… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 6
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法 30.1.2014
・In the case of Goodyear stitching, since we perform blind stitch, we use the leather for the toe box.
・After having attached it, lasted it and adjust… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 5
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法５ 29.1.2014
・After the lasting, we remove all nails and attach the sole leather
・When we use the adhesion process, we use a 3mm-thick leather for the sole
・吊り込み後… [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 4
外羽接着、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法４ 27/1/2014
・The way we cut the paper pattern can affect greatly the shoe design, so it is important to pay attention in the process.
・It’s also important to cut out … [Read more]
Jul. 01, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 3
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法3 23.1.2014
・This is the open-laced moccasin design
・We assemble 2 types of leather, white and brown color, and sew the parts together
・We perforate the… [Read more]
Jun. 30, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques ２
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法２ 22/1/2014
・After having built up the leather layers on the heel, we check the whole height of the shoe.
・The standard uplift corresponds to 1 pencil placed und… [Read more]
Jun. 30, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 1
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法１ 20/1/2014
・Compared to the closed-laced shoe, the open-laced one is composed by more parts, so let’s pay particular attention during the cutting
process
・As for … [Read more]
Jun. 30, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Attaching techniques for pumps and design (provisional shoes)
パンプス接着方法 デザイン～仮靴
・First, we attach the design tape on the external side of the shoetree
・We draw a line in the center of the shoetree and we cut all the parts besides the external side (th… [Read more]
Jun. 30, 2014 | Posted in
Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:
Morita, Shoemaking
Reporter: Morita | Course:
Shoemaking
Provisional shoes: adhesion and pattern cutting
外羽接着・型紙裁断～仮靴
・After having cut the paper pattern off, we transfer it on the provisory felt and cut it again.
・It’s important to check whether the felt has been cut following the patt… [Read more]
OPEN-LACED SHOE AND GOODYEAR STYLE STITCHING 5
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法5 25.2.2014 ・The students check the process of leather cutting together with the instructor, following carefully the paper pattern (photo on the left and central) ・In the … [Read more]
OPEN-LACED SHOES AND GOODYEAR WELT METHOD 3
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤーウエルト製法3 4.3.2014 ・In order to reinforce the toe part, students attach the leather and adjust the shape (photo on the left) ・After having sewn the welt around the shoe, stude… [Read more]
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 8
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法8 11.2.2014 ・For Goodyear style, we nail the leather to the shoetree. The leather has been first wetted and its thickness is 5mm. ・Once the leather is dried, we r… [Read more]
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 7
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法7 10.2.2014 ・After having colored the outsole and arranged the shape, the students remove the shoetree ・They fix the heel with screws, from the inside of the s… [Read more]
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 5
うち羽接着製法5 05/12/2013 ・We set the heel size and proceed with building up the leather layers (the heel size corresponds approximately to 1/4 of the total length of the sole) ・The leather w… [Read more]
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 3
うち羽接着製法3 02/12/2013 ・We apply the outsole (in the adhesive process, the leather thickness should be about 3 mm). ・We scrape the outsole with a grinder and arrange the shape ・Then, w… [Read more]
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 3
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法3 6.2.2014 ・After adjusting the cork shape, we attach a 5mm-thick outsole ・We firmly hammer it and be sure that there aren’t protrusions ・We cut off the pi… [Read more]
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 2
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法2 5.2.2014 ・For the open-laced technique, we attach the outsole leather and adjust the shape ・Since the welt has visible seams, the shoe looks like a Goodyear … [Read more]
PUMPS / OPEN-LACED/ GOODYEAR-STYLE –ATTACHING TECHNIQUES 1
パンプス接着製法、外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法1 3.2.2014 ・For the attaching technique of open-laced shoes, we attach the welt adjusting it to the outer perimeter of the shoe ・We curve the welt to fit the c… [Read more]
Closed lacing shoe – Attaching process
うち羽接着本番靴制作 ・After cutting the leather for the final shoe, we skim the overlapped part, as we did for the provisional sample. ・After the skimming, we wrap up the leather around the wear… [Read more]
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 2
うち羽接着製法 ・The lasting is a very important process to determine the design, and that’s why everyone is very concentrated on his/her work. ・After lasting the internal leather, we apply the rubb… [Read more]
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 1
うち羽接着製法 ・This is Francis, second-year student of Shoe Making. Compared to other students, he has reached a very high level of manufacturing skills ・2年目のフランシス。 他の学生とは違いかなり高度な製法の靴を制作しています… [Read more]
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 6
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法 30.1.2014 ・In the case of Goodyear stitching, since we perform blind stitch, we use the leather for the toe box. ・After having attached it, lasted it and adjust… [Read more]
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 5
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法５ 29.1.2014 ・After the lasting, we remove all nails and attach the sole leather ・When we use the adhesion process, we use a 3mm-thick leather for the sole ・吊り込み後… [Read more]
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 4
外羽接着、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法４ 27/1/2014 ・The way we cut the paper pattern can affect greatly the shoe design, so it is important to pay attention in the process. ・It’s also important to cut out … [Read more]
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 3
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法3 23.1.2014 ・This is the open-laced moccasin design ・We assemble 2 types of leather, white and brown color, and sew the parts together ・We perforate the… [Read more]
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques ２
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法２ 22/1/2014 ・After having built up the leather layers on the heel, we check the whole height of the shoe. ・The standard uplift corresponds to 1 pencil placed und… [Read more]
Open-laced shoes, Goodyear stitching method, pumps attaching techniques 1
外羽接着製法、グッドイヤー製法、パンプス接着製法１ 20/1/2014 ・Compared to the closed-laced shoe, the open-laced one is composed by more parts, so let’s pay particular attention during the cutting process ・As for … [Read more]
Attaching techniques for pumps and design (provisional shoes)
パンプス接着方法 デザイン～仮靴 ・First, we attach the design tape on the external side of the shoetree ・We draw a line in the center of the shoetree and we cut all the parts besides the external side (th… [Read more]
Provisional shoes: adhesion and pattern cutting
外羽接着・型紙裁断～仮靴 ・After having cut the paper pattern off, we transfer it on the provisory felt and cut it again. ・It’s important to check whether the felt has been cut following the patt… [Read more]