Accademia Riaci
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Morita
Nationality: Japan
Course: Shoe Making
Assistant
Jul. 03, 2014 | Posted in Reports, Shoemaking , Lesson Reporter | Tags:Morita, ShoemakingReporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking
Closed Lacing Shoe – Attaching method 3
うち羽接着製法3 02/12/2013
・We apply the outsole (in the adhesive process, the leather thickness should be about 3 mm).
・We scrape the outsole with a grinder and
arrange the shape
・Then, we decide the height of the heel (generally it’s 1/4 of the total length of the sole)
・With a knife, we flatten the part that is going to be attached to the heel.
・地面に直接接地する本底を貼り付けます。
(革の厚さは接着の場合はおよそ3mm程度のものを使用します。)
・本底を貼り付けたら周囲をグラインダーを使用して削り、形状を整えます。
・踵の大きさをを決めます。
(踵の大きさは本底の全長のおよそ4分1程度が適当です。)
・踵を貼り付ける面をナイフを使い平面にします。
・
After this, we apply a 5mm leather layer on it.
・
Then, we beat it with a hammer to make it adhere completely.
・
We polish the leather on the surface.
・
Using the usual procedure, we build up several layers of leather up to the predefined height (Students use a premade heel)
・踵を貼り付ける面が出来た後、まずは5mm程度の革を一枚貼り付けます。
・貼り付けた後、ハンマーでしっかりと叩いて接着をします。
・貼り付けた革を平面に仕上げます。
・同様の手順で所定の高さになる様に革を積み上げます。
(この生徒さんの場合は既に貼り付けられている踵を使用しています)
・We use again the grinder to arrange the heel shape
・We hammer the nails to firmly fix the heel.
・The heel shape can be configured freely, so it can be interesting to try out odd-shaped heels.
・On the last layer we apply a 5mm of gum.
・踵の貼り付けが終了したら周囲をグラインダーを使用して形状を整えます。
・形状が出来上がったら釘を打ち、踵をしっかりと固定します。
・踵の形状は自由に設定できるので、変わった形にしてみるもの面白いものです。
・最後の一枚は厚さ5mm程度のゴムを貼り付けます。
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