Jul. 09, 2018 | Posted in Reports, Shoemaking , Student Reporter | Tags:Li Shiau-Ting, ShoemakingReporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoemaking

Shoe Making 15-Atelier Course 2017

哈囉，又與大家見面了，新年快樂!想必你們都渡過了充實滿滿的假期。我啊，趁著最後一個禮拜的假期，送了自己一個新年禮物，參與了夢想很久的佛羅倫斯男裝盛事－PITTI UOMO，穿梭在時尚前線，覺得十分開心和興奮。

Hello, it’s me again, happy new year! I hope you all have a wonderful and fulfilling vacation. During the last week of vacation, I gave myself a new year present, I went to PITTI UOMO event. It is a big fashion event that I always dream of visiting in one day and I’m then happier to join the event in this year.

PITTI UOMO每年舉辦兩次，分別展示春夏與秋冬兩個季節的設計商品。配合93屆PITTI UOMO的活動，GUCCI也舉辦了GUCCI GARDEN的特別展覽。

PITTI UOMO is held two times a year, demonstrating seasonal collection for SS and FW. GUCCI also held a special event during PITTI UOMO 93, which is called GUCCI GARDEN.

這次GUCCI GARDEN的活動，創意總監Alessandro Michele將整棟GUCCI大樓打造成祕密花園，裡面除了展示系列粉嫩服裝與配件外，空間的安排也別具巧思，微電影、音樂、花草投影，讓觀者有如進入祕密花園的奇幻空間。

In this GUCCI GARDEN exhibition, the creative director Alessandro Michele has built this GUCCI museum as a secret garden. Insight the space, despite collections for clothes and accessories, there were also movies, music and project pattern on the wall. It makes you feel like you are go into a secret space.

經過漫漫長假後，Riaci新的學期又展開了。這學期加入了四位新同學，看著他們從學習畫版、製作Decollete，讓我想起一年多前的自己…嗯!你們也要加油喔。

After a long vacation, a new semester start in Riaci. In this semester we join four classmates. When I saw them start learning everything from zero, reminding the date I first start my course one year ago, however, the feeling just so strange…

上學期製作到一半的靴子，在完成車縫鞋面、手縫固定鎖口後，這裡需要用膠水黏起固定。跟以往的做法有些不同，手縫也不需要把內裏也一塊縫起，目的是為了讓穿著更加舒適。

The derby boot I working in a half. In this case, this part needed to be glued. It is quite different as the way we have learnt before. The purpose for the step is to make it more comfortable.

Masa救火隊一邊敲打，一邊把我已經切好的中底撐開。這個楦頭的中底的量測需要再大一些，Masa說道。看來下次割中底輪廓時要更加小心…^^”

Our assistant Masa was hammering my insole, helping me to extend the length. When measuring the length for insole, in this case, should be bigger, Masa said. It seems that I should pay more attention to insole-measurement on next time.

終於進入攀幫了! 每每進入這個步驟，好似鞋子完成了一半。為什麼這們說呢?如果說攀幫像是在包餃子，餃子包完後，鞋子就成型了。

The process finally went into lasting. Every times when the shoes were lasted, it looked like it was almost finished in a half. Why I said that? Lasting is likes making dumpling, after it was wrapped, the lasting process is done, then, the outline took form.

完成後踵攀幫作業，等下要接著繼續攀幫鞋頭。是說這塊皮色雖然漂亮，但拉起來真的很不容易…皮革除了要軟還要有韌性，經過這次的經驗又學了寶貴的一課。

Phew! Though leather looks beautiful, but, it is really not easy for lasting. Another lesson I have learnt this time, never buy leathers only because it is beautiful, always look the quality first!

拔去之前固定的釘子，我準備好要攀幫鞋頭了!

Taking away nails that I had put before hand, I am ready for lasting toe-counter!

上學期花了很多時間在製作的法式流蘇樂福鞋，完成。這雙不論在拚色、版型、後處理都有很大的嘗試，實驗性高但也玩得很開心(燦笑)。持續挑戰好玩的設計，也謝謝一路上給我意見跟協助我的教授、助教、同學。一起期待下一雙作品吧 <3

In last semester, I made a lot of effort on this loafer shoes, I’m glad it is done. This pair I tried to play with colors, pattern, finishing. It’s quite experimental but I really have fun during the process (smiling). Many thanks for my professor, assistants, classmates. Let’s looking forward the next creation! <3