Oct. 25, 2016 | Posted in Reports, Shoemaking , Student Reporter | Tags:Li Shiau-Ting, ShoemakingReporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoemaking

Shoe Making 6-Master Course 2016 (Student1)

這個禮拜，在完成Francesina的鞋面紙板後，我們開始使用皮革組合我們的草模。接著呢，我們也開始學習如何製作Francesina的內裡。Francesina跟先前的Decollete有很大的不同在於，Francesina有鞋舌而Decollete沒有鞋舌，因此需另外設計鞋舌裁片與鞋身結合。

This week, after completing pattern of Francesina, we start to prototype our design with leather. Furthermore, we also learned the method of measuring the lining. The pattern of lining differ greatly between Francesina and Decollete, Francesina-pattern has a piece of “tougue”, whereas Decollete-pattern doesn’t, which means, we have to design another pieces to be stitched onto the upper.

我的同學joe正在專注車縫他的鞋面。他選擇的是翼紋雕花鞋作為第一款男鞋的練習。翼紋雕花鞋裁片複雜，這種款式需要更多的裁片、更多的量測以及投注更多的時間。

Our classmate Joe is focusing on stitching his prototype of Francesina. His shoe type is brogues shoe with wing-tip which is more complicated designs. This type of shoe contains more leather pieces, more measurement and times to practice.

這是我的Francesina，我選擇用cap-toe來練習。Cap-toe的設計在紳士鞋的分類當中是屬於比較正式的鞋款，很適合工作時穿。這個鞋面的設計較雕花鞋簡單，我決定先從簡單的開始練習，等收到訂好的楦頭，再嘗試雕花鞋。

This is my Francesina, shoe type is classic cap-toe. This kind of design is more like formal shoe for working place so, pattern is more simple compare to brogues shoe. I planned to start from this pattern for practice, then later brogues shoe to make a pair.

老師在講解如何設計Francesina的內裡以及與女鞋的不同。

This step showed us how to design lining in Francesina.

這張照片是我完成內裡紙板拍的，這款鞋面的內裡跟女鞋有很大的不同，鞋舌的地方需要另外分開裁切。

Photo shot of my pattern of lining. The tongue piece should be separated from main module.

這是我的Francesina，雖然這是在等楦頭前的練習，使用的是用剩下的皮料，我仍然很享受配色的過程。

Although this one just for testing, I enjoy matching different pieces with different colors.

這個步驟我覺得很重要，在使用車縫機縫住鞋身與鞋舌前，需先用手縫的方式將鞋舌固定。

Important step of Francesina, after combining all the pieces together (sewing machine), we hand stitch to combine tongue with main upper.

處理完內裡的樣貌。

The appearance of Francesina’s lining.

處理邊的方式大致上有分成五種，Decollete 的練習使用較為簡單的處理邊的方式，這次嘗試Venatura是將細細的裁條夾在鞋面與內裡的一種技術。

There are five different methods of special finishes of the edge, when we practiced Decollete, we learned much simple folding such as slip beading and reversed. In this time, I challenged myself for more complicated folding, which was named Venatura. Venatura is a folding needs a strip of leather being sewn between upper and lining.

在完成鞋舌跟鞋面的裁片後，要將這兩部分車縫起來。在組合鞋舌的時候技巧比較特別，需先在鞋面處車一條線，然後翻過來再補車一條在內裡處固定。

After finishing tongue pieces and main pieces, we join them together. First, we stitched tongue to upper then stitched again only on lining.

禮拜六我們來到Piazza Pitti 宮參觀，這邊曾經是義大利國王皇后的城堡，在廢除國王制度之後這邊改成博物館，裡面典藏了許多文藝復興時期、古羅馬時期以及巴洛克時期的畫作，十分值得參觀。
這禮拜的報告到這邊囉，下週見!

Art stage on Saturday, we went to Palazzo Pitti, where used to be palace of Italian king, now a museum preserved many beautiful paintings. This is weekly reports, see you next week!