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Li SHIAU-TING
Reporter
Li SHIAU-TING

Nationality: Taiwan
Course: Shoe Making
Program: Atelier Course
Period: Sep. 4, 2017 – Apr. 27, 2018

Shiau-Ting, Li. Shoes designer from Taiwan.
After working in Taiwanese footwear industry for three and a half years, she came to Firenze to study shoes making course, the city which is famous for leather art and shoes.
Although she already has basic aesthetics and sketching technique background from university (B.A.), yet she hopes to extend her shoe-making skills here in Riaci. She believes designer can deliver their thoughts through their works, hoping to keep motivate people with her designs.

李曉婷,來自台灣的鞋類設計師。
在台灣鞋產業工作三年半之後,她決定到皮革之都-佛羅倫斯,學習製鞋技術。
大學主修產品工藝,擁有美學背景、好的品味及繪畫基礎。即便如此,仍期望到莉雅琪延伸自己在實作上的經驗。她相信,設計師能夠透過設計表達想法,希望能持續用創作感動身邊的人。

台湾の靴業界で靴デザイナーとして3年半経験を積んだ後、さらに学びを深めようと革工芸と靴で有名なここフィレンツェへやって来ました。
基本的な審美眼とスケッチ技術は大学(文学士号取得)で学んでいましたが、さらに靴制作の技術を磨くためにリアチ入学を決めました。「デザイナーの想いは、デザインを通して人々に届く」ことを信じ、自分のデザインで人々の心を動かしたいと願っています。

Mar. 09, 2018 | Posted in Reports, Shoemaking , | Tags:, Reporter: Li SHIAU-TING | Course: Shoemaking

Shoe Making 9-Atelier Course 2017

20171110_Li01
這禮拜我製作完莫卡辛的鞋面並且開始lasting了! 圖片裡我正在縫製莫卡辛常見的邊緣處理方式,稱作Border。第一次車縫這樣的邊條有點不太適應,兩塊皮料的高低落差讓輪軸像開在不平穩路面的車,上上下下的,呼!

Hi, another moccasin week! In this week, I’ve done with my upper and finally started lasting. As you see in the picture, this is a new method for edge finishing, which is called “Border”. The method needed to concentrate very well while stitching. For the first time making “Border”, it took me a while to adapt it. In conclusion, it looks NICE!

20171110_Li02
看來我的第一雙客訂德比鞋快要完成了,好令人興奮。

It seems my first customized Derby could be done in this week. How exciting!

20171110_Li03
這是Monica的牛津鞋,我很喜歡她的顏色搭配,搭起來協調又可愛。

This is Monica’s oxford shoes. I like the way she uses colors and that lovely combination.

20171110_Li04
Monica接著要lasting鞋面了。教授Angelo正在示範lasting的步驟,每次都是又快又精準啊!

Prof. Angelo was showing Monica how to last her oxford shoes. see how fast, professional and accurate he did like always! (Impressive…)

20171110_Li05
莫卡辛鞋面製作好的樣子,我也要準備來lasting這雙鞋囉

Photo shot when moccasin upper was ready. Now, it is the time to last this shoe!

20171110_Li06
圖片裡教授Angelo正在示範lasting莫卡辛鞋的步驟。放置counter的方式跟其他鞋面做法相同。

Prof. Angelo was showing me how to last moccasin shoe. The way for lasting it and putting counters is the same as usual.

20171110_Li07
屁股的地方要稍微伸展一下來塑形-Angelo說著…

The back part needed to stretch shape it a bit by hand, Angelo said.

20171110_Li08
好了,Pre-lasting完成。這雙鞋我決定挑戰Idea的工法,在lasting的工序跟方法上也跟先前的完全不同。

Okay, Pre-lasting was finished. In this time, I decided to challenge a new construction named- Idea. As you see, this lasting method is so different from the others.

20171110_Li09
需要將所有的鞋面打開,並用長釘子向外固定住,跟以往在鞋跟位置打短釘的做法很不同。

Especially the back part, usually we use short nail for the heel but, in this case, Prof. use long nail and bend it down around the last…

20171110_Li10
終於開心地把德比鞋完成了,謝謝Masa仔細地幫我穿上鞋帶,鞋子看起來更加完整了。這禮拜週報就到這裡,我們下禮拜見囉~

I am very happy I have finished this pair. Thanks for our assistant – Masa helping me with shoe laces. Now, it looks gorgeous! This is the end of weekly report, see you next week~


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