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morita
Reporter
Morita

Nationality: Japan
Course: Shoe Making
Assistant

Nov. 03, 2014 | Posted in Reports, Shoemaking , | Tags:, Reporter: Morita | Course: Shoemaking

Summer Course:Adhesive method pumps (decorte)

サマーコース 接着製法パンプス(decorte) 30.6.2014


Adhesive method pumps_20141028_1  Adhesive method pumps_20141028_2  Adhesive method pumps_20141028_3

・Students firstly make provisional shoes (prova). If there is no problem with the design, they proceed with a real leather. (Picture left)
・The instructor explains about the intermediate sole (soletta) by showing the actual shoe or referring to books. (Pictures center & right)

・仮靴(prova)を作製してデザインに問題が無いようなら実際の革を使い作業を進めます。(左)
・中底(soletta)などの説明は実際の物や本を参考にして説明をします。(中、右)

Adhesive method pumps_20141028_4  Adhesive method pumps_20141028_5  Adhesive method pumps_20141028_6

・Students check the procedure careful when making a pattern paper (camicia) because it is the base of making any kinds of shoes. (Picture left)
・Non-stretch ribbon (nastrino) is put around the shoe opening on the surface leather (tomaia). (Picture center)
・The instructor explains about pattern papers (camicia) over and over because it is very important. (Picture right)

・型紙(camicia)の基本的な取り方は全てに共通するので常に確認しながら作業をします。(左)
・履き口の周囲には伸び止めテープ(nastrino)を外革(tomaia)に貼ります。(中)
・型紙(camicia)は大変に重要なものなので先生が何度も説明をします。(右)

Adhesive method pumps_20141028_7  Adhesive method pumps_20141028_8  Adhesive method pumps_20141028_9

・The instructor is explaining how to draw ines on the design of adhesive methods’ (mastice) open lace (francesia). (Picture left)
・Students cautiously proceed with cutting the leather out as leather is more difficult to cut than a felt. (Picture center)
・Students check the line together with the instructor as they proceed with shoe lasting (montaggio). (Picture right)

・接着製法(mastice)内羽(francesina)デザインについてラインの引き方などを説明します。(左)
・フェルト生地と違い革は裁断が難しいので慎重に作業を進めます。(中)
・吊り込み(montaggio)でのラインは先生と確認しながら作業を進めます。(右)


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